Damage can also occur to even good quality lamps , the coating can be chipped or rubbed during manufacturing or transport so check lamps are not damaged before using them in your bearded dragon enclosure. Your UV lamp should always be placed overhead and not on the side of the enclosure.
This replicates the direction the sun naturally comes from in wild environments. Bearded dragons are well adapted to their environment and their distinct eyebrow ridges are an evolutionary adaptation to protect their eyes from too much sun and UV exposure.
Placing the lamp on the side will allow the UV rays to get directly into bearded dragons eyes are cause issues a lot faster. As mentioned, reptiles are masters of self-regulation if they are provided with the right environment.
Overexposure to UVB most commonly occurs when bearded dragons cannot physically get away or shield themselves from the UV lamp.
A dull and flat enclosure can result in a lack of refuge from damaging rays. You can learn more about how important hides are for beardies over at our new article. Bearded dragons get their light and UV from the sun and in their natural habitat of Australia, there are day and night cycles. Overexposure to UVB can be due to the light schedule being wrong and the light being on much too long. Not only will the light be disruptive to sleep if the light stays on constantly, but UVB exposure will also be doubled.
The good news is that simple housing and care methods are enough to prevent overexposure to UVB for your bearded dragon. So, how can you prevent your bearded dragon from getting too much UVB?
You can prevent your bearded dragon from getting too much UVB by:. Ensure your lamp is placed directly overhead in the enclosure and never to the sides. The lamp should not be centred nor cover the entire length of the enclosure. Place the lamp to one end to create a temperature, light and UV gradient and your bearded dragon will self regulate. Measure all through the enclosure to ensure there is an adequate distribution and your lamp is placed correctly.
UV does not penetrate glass so the lamp needs to be below any glass covering. Above we discussed PKC and how it is related to snowy environments in humans. Check all furniture and substrate that goes into an enclosure to ensure it does not have a reflective quality that may cause the UV rays to be diverted to damaging angles. Reflective surfaces may be fun and stimulating enrichment but should only be used for a limited time and not a permanent part of the enclosure. Create a daily and seasonal schedule and set your lamps to timers.
This may be beneficial particularly if you suspect UVB overexposure. To ensure you are creating the correct environment and to avoid overexposure to UVB, you need to know how much UVB your bearded dragon needs. The wattage of your UV lamp does not matter as much as the placement of the lamp does.
If your wattage is high, you would want the lamp further away. If the wattage is lower, bring the lamp down. You should measure the UVI ultraviolet index throughout the enclosure and aim for between at the basking spot. You do not want the index over 7. The wattage of the lamp, the placement and whether or not the bulb has a reflective hood will all influence the UVI in the enclosure. When choosing a lamp wattage, choose one that will fit nicely into the enclosure setup you have.
An important note is that UVB bulbs will fade over time. They may emit the same light but the UV output reduces. Your UV reader will come in handy here to monitor bulb output. UVB light should replicate natural levels. Many enthusiasts use linear fluorescent bulbs to supply UV radiation.
Do not use just any ordinary fluorescent bulb, always use bulbs manufactured especially for desert-dwelling reptiles. These bulbs come in lengths ranging from 15 inches to 48 inches in length. The length you need will depends on the length of the enclosure. For instance, if the enclosure is 60 inches long the shortest bulb you should use is 48 inches in length. If the enclosure is greater than 60 inches long then you will need to use two or more bulbs to supply enough UV radiation over the length of the enclosure.
House fluorescent tube bulbs in a hood or ballast specifically designed for use with reptile bulbs. Replace bulbs every 6 months to provide optimum radiation output. In recent years compact fluorescent bulbs CFL have gained popularity in the reptile husbandry world.
These bulbs offer good radiation benefits while consuming less power to operate. House CFL bulbs in a dome-style light fixture. There has been some debate within the reptile-keeping community over the safety of these bulbs. There have been instances where the bulb has caused some reptiles to suffer from burned eyes leading to cases of blindness in the pet.
You will probably spend more acquiring these foodstuffs for your pet, but it is worth every penny. Remember, roaches are tasty to reptiles and loaded with a lot of nutrients at the same time. However, if you prefer going the other way, supplements would be a good idea.
To help your pet get some calcium, put some reptile supplements on his or her food just before meals. All UVB lights should be turned off during the night. Remember to turn on the UVB lights during the day and keep them off at night. The last thing you want is a stressed-out pet.
UVB concentration can be too high. The surest way of knowing if your beardy is getting too much UVB is by looking at its eyes as it basks. If you notice your pet closing its eyes, the UVB rays might be too strong. The main difference between these two light rays is simple. UVA is a standard light ray that can be emitted from any bulb.
To help you understand why you need a UVB bulb and not just any other bulb, you have to know the differences between the two. UVA bulbs are regular light bulbs that produce white light and heat only, whereas UVB light bulbs are unique bulbs that emit short UVB rays for Vitamin D synthesis and calcium absorption. Well, the amount of UVB exposure differs depending on seasons.
You can, therefore, turn on the light in the mid-morning and turn it off around midnight. For fall and winter, however, your pet requires 8 to 10 hours of UVB lighting. In case you are wondering why, these reptiles undergo brumation in Winter, where they spend most of their days asleep.
Having the lights on for long might, therefore, hinder this special occasion. One of the commonly asked questions is whether bearded dragons also need UVA during captivity. The answer is yes. Domesticating a bearded dragon comes with several requirements.
Apart from food and water, they need the right lighting. Remember, these animals freely bask in the wild, acquiring all the light they need for calcium synthesis. For these reasons, a stone basking surface should be provided , as this material is best at absorbing heat for bearded dragons to use.
Additionally, most reptiles benefit from a nightly drop in temperature, which science suggests may actually strengthen their immune system rather than weaken it, as commonly believed. In fact, providing cooler temperatures at night encourages beardies to bask in the morning, which subsequently makes for a more active dragon.
However, without adequate daytime warming, these cool temperatures may induce brumation or illness. Use a high-wattage halogen bulb inside of a dome heat lamp with a ceramic socket to safely achieve the right basking temperatures and thermal gradient. If you need hotter, raise the basking surface preferably stone rather than plastic, mesh, or fabric closer to the heat source. To measure this, you will need an infrared temperature gun.
Second , you need to make sure that your air temperatures are high enough. A warm basking surface is no good if the air is too cold, and too high air temperatures can give your dragon heat stroke. Keep track of the air temperature in the basking area with a probe digital thermometer like the Zoo Med Digital Combo Thermometer and Humidity Gauge , which is inexpensive and I have been quite pleased with in my own use.
One should not be used without the other! Every living creature needs water, even the ones that live in arid desert environments.
Water is available in three main ways:. Yes, you read that correctly — they can get water from the air. But this small amount of water from ambient humidity helps keep their lungs, skin, and scales healthy.
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