Trying to 'over-fill' your radiator and boiler system does not offer any major benefit or bonus, so using a full bottle on a single radiator just wastes the money you spend on most of the inhibitor. A professional engineer would generally recommend that you use a new wave of inhibitor annually. The chemical will get diluted as it spends more time in the system, as would all products, and the pressure can sometimes make this faster than you would expect. Different brands could dilute faster, but once a year is a good baseline to work from.
Do not 'top up' your system unless you need to, or the product's guide says this is recommended, since this might end up being a waste. You can use an inhibitor testing kit to find out how strong the inhibitor still is. This can be a good option to get an idea of how badly you need to add more, and the kits are not always set at a high price. Single-use kits can be cheap, whereas reusable ones fetch a higher price for greater convenience. Some issues are best solved before they actually happen, and an inhibitor cleanse is a great way to break down anything that is starting to form at the top of a radiator or the bottom of a pipe.
Drops in boiler pressure are a common sign of a blockage, leak, or another type of damage. It could be in a tank, a pipe, or even the boiler itself. The inhibitor may not be able to stop physical damage on its own, but it can make it much harder for the scale of rusted patches or sludge formations to increase. You do not even need to find the problem area since the inhibitor should break down the debris quickly.
If your radiators, or showers, are not getting hot , they might have a blockage. Instead of getting an engineer to start working on the problem, you can remove it ahead of time by adding inhibitor to stop the blockage from forming, restoring heat to the radiators. Water can cause rusting in most metals, and you can't usually change rusted metal back into a safe, usable material. An inhibitor product can't protect the entire pipe, but it can stop the rusted parts from trying to build up through the rest of the metal.
While water purity does not always matter that much in a central heating system, you can sometimes see problems if you compare performance. If debris can build up in the boiler tank, less water can be heated at any one time. If you are finding that the inhibitor is not doing enough, then there are other ways you can care for your system. Some may come with a high price, while others are a fairly cheap service, but it is important to know what you are doing before you start messing around with a filter or your boiler system.
A magnetic boiler filter can get more debris and dirt out of the system, making it easier to ensure blockage-free operation. They catch a lot more, especially metal shards from rusted sections of the pipework, which can be a good way to avoid the slow accumulation of sludge. Even the best regular filters can let small particles through now and then. Adding a new magnetic filter can require some help, so you might need a registered engineer to handle it if you are not able to use a guide or do not trust your own skills.
Central heating inhibitor should be topped up on an annual basis as it will become diluted over time and your system will lose its protection against limescale and rust. Ideally you should add inhibitor when you system is drained or your engineer should add it when they carry out the annual service. A central heating inhibitor test kit will provide you with an accurate measurement of the concentration of inhibitor in the system. The test is very simple as it involves taking a sample of water from the radiator and placing it in a tube.
Adding inhibitor to your central heating system is relatively straightforward but can be an intimidating task at first. Firstly you need to know what kind of heating system you have — open vented or sealed — as this will affect how you should add the inhibitor.
If you have two tanks of water in your loft, you probably have an open vented system. You need to add the inhibitor to the expansion tank which is the smaller of the tanks. The first step is to stop the flow of water at the mains or by turning the valve on your tank. When the tank has drained, make sure the tank is clean and there are no signs of corrosion as this will need to be sorted out before you go any further.
If the tank is in good condition, pour the inhibitor into the tank and turn the water back on. If you only have one large tank in the loft you have a sealed system. You can add inhibitor to the system via the boiler filling loop.
When adding inhibitor to a combi boiler system the heating should be turned off and the radiators should be cool before you begin. The inhibitor is added directly into a radiator either via the bleed valve or, in the case of towel radiator, the plug at the top. Select a radiator to add the inhibitor to you only need to add it to one and shut both valves on the radiator.
Attach the inhibitor bottle to valve or plug and pour it in before turning the heating back on. As a general rule of thumb, a 1 litre of bottle inhibitor will treat up to radiators but you should always read the advice and instructions from the manufacturer. If you have more than 8 radiators, you may need to use two bottles. If you would like to speak to a professional heating engineer about your cleaning and protecting your heating system, contact us today and we'll put you in touch with up to 3 heating engineers in your area.
Each brand offers a range of different products which are designed to treat different issues in a heating system. Run heating for 15mins to disperse inhibitor around the system. Water coming out of the overflow? More Plumbing Help Adding Inhibitor To Combi Boiler Click for non Combi Unpressurised system Draining system to add Inhibitor There are a few ways you can add an inhibitor to a Pressurised System Combi boiler one is to drain the system and use a normal inhibitor, this can sometimes be poured in by removing a plug on the top of a towel radiator see picture above or by injecting it into the radiator with a washing up liquid bottle after removing an air vent plug see picture below.
Not Draining the system Injecting Through Bleed Valve There are products that allow you to inject a concentrate or gel into the heating system via a bleed valve without the need to drain the system.
Site Information Email Privacy Policy. The best Inhibitor would have to go to the Inhibitor that has the best instructions labelled and easier to handle.
In the picture are what we believe deserve 1st place. If your looking for the best way to put Inhibitor into the central heating system, it is always best putting it directly into a radiator by means of a funnel, however, there is not a great deal difference if your putting it into the central heating storage tank, normally located in the attic.
The best time to put central heating Inhibitor into the central heating system is, when the central heating system is empty. When the central heating system is full and the central heating pump is pumping the central heating water and the central heating system, the Inhibitor will balance out in protecting your central heating system.
If your looking for an amount to put into the central heating system, then read the instructions at the back of the central heating Inhibitor. The Inhibitor will give a clear indication to how much to put into the central heating system. If your unsure and too lazy to read the instructions, then it will be save to put 2 standard bottles of Inhibitor in, as long as you have more than 6 radiators.
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